Day 108 to Gonbad-e-Qabus, Iran, 114km, 8,828 to date, 1497m up,  1160m end. 

An easy day, essentially all down hill.  At the start of the ride, it was cool, dry and in the Golestan national forest.  As we rode it was a steady descent, passing through extensive forests, very similar to Quebec.  The ride ending with us on the flats about 100km from the Caspian Sea - so the humidity must be approaching 100%.  We have a rest day tomorrow to help get used to the humidity.

We camped last night at the headquarters for the Golestan National Forest Service.  The park has an amazing collection of wildlife including various large cats, brown bears, mountain goats and various very large predator birds.  A big part of the Park Rangers job is anti-poaching.

This is one of the park rangers offering us tea just before sunset:

As many of you know, I tend to keep my wardrobe simple - i.e. my normal shirt riding my bike is a long sleeve white cotton dress shirt.  I like cotton shirts because I find them very comfortable, but also relatively cool in the hot sun.  My fashion leadership seems to be catching on:

A couple landscape pics:

This trio is riding from Tehran to Mashhad  - Mashhad is Iran’s holiest city somewhat like Mecca:

Day 107 to Golestan National Park, Iran, 114km, 8,828 to date, 1497m up,  1160m end. 

A good but hard day, essentially the same in distance and climbing as riding the Vancouver - Whistler GranFondo.  I’m very pleased, I definitely seem to be returning to “health”, I’m a bit weak and the stamina needs some work, but all is good - physically and mentally.  The temperature wasn’t bad, probably hitting about 33C in the shade - or maybe I am getting used to it - drinking a couple litres of water, 

Stopped by the police again today, actually I ran the police check - I didn’t know that the waving arm meant I was supposed to stop.  So I was chased down and stopped.  The officer was really good, after I stopped, he formally greeted me with warm handshake.  Yes, he wanted to see my passport (with Iranian Visa) but that was it.  After he took some notes he warmly wished me a good journey and I was on my way.  What I found really interesting was that he took some handwritten notes - his writing was obviously in Iranian (Arabic), writing from right to left - I was very impressed with how quick and easily he wrote and how absolutely beautiful the script was.  It would be really fun to learn the written script, however it would require a bit more discipline and memory skills than I have.  I have managed to get most of the numbers - so I can read the speed limit signs on the highway.

Yesterday, we went to the Iranian Cell store.  It took a bit of time, scanning passport, being fingerprinted, but for the equivalent of $10CDN, I have an Iranian SIM card and 5 gig of data, on a 4G network!  As I write this, we are way out in the weeds, but still connected!

Just as I started riding this morning, I eat past one of the city parks - the park was full of tents.  I gather a common practise is for people on vacation to simply camp almost anywhere including city parks.  Very tidy with no trace by mid-morning.  Can you imagine Centennial square, Bastion Square, Beacon Hill park, Stanley park being full every night with tourist tents.  Why not!

Getting close to my next major highlight of this trip, Tehran:

A picture I forgot to post earlier.  As most of you know, Iran is Muslim and hence no booze.  Our next beer and/or glass of wine will be in Turkey.  For one of the riders, this is going to be a real challenge.  This is Irwin (from Germany) savouring his last beer before we walk the no man’s land between Turkmenistan and Iran.  He had brought the beer to the border just for this enjoyment.

As a strong Muslim country, women must be fully covered.  This has been a challenge for the 3 women we have cycling.  Long pants and covered arms make for quite hot riding.  They are getting better at keeping a headscarf on covering their hair, but taking a lot of effort.  One of the ladies bought a Chador, which roughly translated mean “tent”, she claims it is reasonably comfortable, hers is a patterned white.  I can’t imagine wearing a black one.  Yesterday at lunch when the police checked us, and then were very friendly - introductions etc., it was as if the women weren’t there.  I have trouble balancing this with the generosity and friendliness of essentially all Iranians.