tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73010778256289922072024-02-21T08:08:13.900-08:00Over a few bumps to KathmanduRon Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.comBlogger170125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-74640034881863412982019-10-07T21:43:00.000-07:002019-10-07T21:43:18.427-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Oct 7, 2019 Nuwakoth to Kathmandu 20km, 3,165 to date, 50M up, 35,020M climbing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Successful! Arrived Kathmandu</b>, all happy, very happy in fact. Hot, sticky, very sweaty, about 10lbs lighter than when I started, bike needs tons of work, but thrilled to have completed the ride. And got the T-shirt!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We rode 3,165 km, climbing over 35,000 metres. Yes, that means we averaged more than 1,000 metres of climbing per cycling day, 2,438 metres up in one day (into Shimla) was the biggest. The highest pass was Tanglang la at 5,360m (17,580ft). It has been an extremely challenging ride, I am very pleased I managed all of the ride except for the couple days I was sick, EFI would have been nice icing on the cake, but I knew before I came that the chances of getting through India without having some digestive challenges was unlikely.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This has been an amazing adventure. My highest complements to Tda for creating and running this adventure. Talking to Depi (the local that was instrumental in creating the ride) he tells me the window to do the ride was very small, 4 weeks earlier there was 10’ of snow on the high passes, a couple weeks later we would have experienced serious monsoons. Even with the perfect timing, we were extremely lucky with the weather - often high cloud that kept the temperatures from getting too hot, only a modest amount of rain and only a bit of hail. Only two partial days of strong winds against. One couldn't ask for better.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We took the “arrival” pictures at the famous Monkey Temple (see below), then did a bit of a tour around the city being led by some local cyclists. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I get to be lazy today, then start the long journey home tomorrow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">…Ron</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Some last pics:</span></div>
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Everyone in their grape shirts</div>
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The Monkey Temple in Kathmandu - the ride is complete.</div>
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The "end of ride" pose.</div>
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At Durbar square</div>
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At Patan town square</div>
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End of ride!</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-18256065672745403322019-10-06T04:34:00.005-07:002019-10-06T04:34:51.786-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Oct 6, 2019 Dhadingbesi to Nuwakoth 51km, 3,145 to date, 988M up, 34,970M climbing to date</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">There seems to be a repeat format here - very hot, very humid, staying in really wonderful accommodation that is at the top of a 700M climb. But the last time we will do this, tomorrow we end this adventure cycling into Kathmandu.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Oct 6 is the Dashain Festival in Nepal, a popular major holiday among both Hindus and Buddhists. A time for families to get together, major feasts are prepared. But, it is not a good day to be a goat. Almost every house or group of houses were slaughtering a goat today. Just like Christmas and Thanksgiving are not good days to be a turkey in Canada. Something I noticed is that groups of families seemed to jointly prepare the feast. If it involved a water buffalo, probably half the town was involved.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Our accommodation tonight is in the Famous Farmhouse, I haven’t figured out why it is called famous, but it is a beautiful place. Extensive flowers and gardens. The buildings were destroyed in the 2015 earthquake, but have been fully rebuilt plus more. The rebuild was essentially “as was”, complete with 4.5’ high entry doors, 4.5’ high doors to the washrooms etc., Hobbits would really like the place. I’ve managed to get that into my head after only two head thumping.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Some pics:</span></div>
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After earthquake version</div>
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Restored version</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-71838122892409184162019-10-05T08:22:00.001-07:002019-10-05T08:22:13.068-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Oct 5, 2019 Gorkha to Dhadingbesi: 54km, 3,094 to date, 976M up, 33,982M climbing to date</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">3rd to last day. Effectively all off-road - gravel/rocks/mud - 5 riders fell today, one 4 times, luckily no-one hurt other than minor scratches. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This was a much better choice of route than the main highway, which wold be nuts to try cycle on, in fact Tda has made the call that we will not cycle on the main highway. Although rough, the route today was way off the eaten track, no tourists go here, a beautiful ride, commonly along the top of a ridge and effectively no traffic, no diesel fume belching buses.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The route did come with two stream crossings, managed to ride across one, not the other. Totally wet feet on both crossings, but it is hot enough that the feet/shoes dried quickly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Interesting scene as we left Gorkha, we cycled past the water buffalo slaughtering spot. Two full backs with an axe and the head rolled off to the side. They were then using a blowtorch to burn off all the hair (I think). A few hundred metres later I saw another Water Buffalo being led to the same location - it was clearly not happy, it sensed what was coming.</span></div>
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Note the severed head on the left</div>
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The local ferris wheel</div>
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The "bush" in the road is a person carrying feed to his/her livestock</div>
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a swing in the middle of the road</div>
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Typical road surface today</div>
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one of the stream crossings</div>
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This swing doubles as the small village entrance gate</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-32535773045982193272019-10-04T02:08:00.000-07:002019-10-04T02:08:19.256-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Oct 3, 2019, Pokara to Bandipur 83km, 2,991 to date, 1,222M up, 32,012M climbing to date</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We had an excellent start to the day, it was clear sky, so the Annapurna range was clear, some pics:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The peak in the centre is Machapuchare, it is considered very holy and one is forbidden to climb it. References suggest one person possibly did climb it (he was subsequently killed in an avalanche), but everyone has respected the climbing ban since.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Only 4 riding days left till the end at Kathmandu</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Again the nicer hotels were at the top of a 600M climb, so that’s what we did. We are in Bandipur which used to be a major stop on the trading routes, however a new highway bypassed the town. This effective killed the town, but the locals said “we are not going to let the town die”, so with a huge amount of energy, some outside funding, they have created a wonderful tourist town, funky shops, narrow streets and many old restored buildings. A few pics:</span></div>
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Kevin, Fiona: I'm confused is this ad advert for Ice Cream?</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Oct 4, 2019 Bandipur to Gorkha 51km, 3,042 to date, 994M up, 33,006M climbing to date</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Fourth to last day of riding. A relatively easy day, but hot with very high humidity, I could wring the sweat out my shirt at the end of the ride. Again we cycled back down the 600M hill to the highway, along the highway for a bit, then turned off for another 600M climb to the famous hilltop town of Gorkha. This is where Prithvinarayan Shah was born, he is known for gathering the Gorkha solders and creating what is now Nepal in the 17th century. The British also learned that the Gorkha’s were to be given absolute respect.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">If someone says they are not afraid to die, they are either lying or they are a Gorkha soldier.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">No pics from today as similar to previous.</span></div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-79577261704017876882019-10-02T00:18:00.000-07:002019-10-02T00:18:12.820-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Sept 30, 2019 Lumbini to Tansen, 82km 1272M up 1462M end</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Initially an easy day, then a 1,000M climb.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Some pics:</span></div>
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This iron has a charcoal fire inside the iron. Not the lightweight model.</div>
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This guy wasn't interested in sharing the sidewalk with me</div>
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Peter is happy, he has found the perfect Cell hotspot in town</div>
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Back alley of the old town we rode through</div>
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I guess rocks are better than nails for keeping the roof on</div>
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Bus on the wrong side of the road as usual</div>
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7 headed snake - odd to have on the side of a school yard</div>
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Now this is a proper swing!</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Oct 1, 2019 Tansen to Pokhara: 126km, 2,908 to date, 1559m Up, 29,958M climbing to date, 905M end</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We did an early start, up at 5:30, on the road just after 6:00 - really nice, very quiet roads.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I’ve noticed that we are seeing fewer cows on the road, the locals seem to keep the livestock tethered and bring the feed to them, rather than let the livestock wander for food.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Maybe some of the bus drivers read my blog from the other day (extremely unlikely), but ever since I posted about how bad the bus drivers are, they have been much more reasonable.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We are now in Pokhara, this is a huge centre for outdoor everything, especially trekking. Lot’s of international restaurants. The Annapurna Range is visible from Pokhara, including three of the ten highest peaks in the world (Dhaulariri, Annapurna and Manaslu). It rained monsoon like all last evening and is fairly overcast again today, but we did see some glimpses of the range this morning, but not worthy of pics.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We have a rest day here in Pokhara tomorrow, then a 5 day push to Kathmandu and the end. As in previous trips like this I have done, I am conflicted, very happy that this adventure is coming to an end and I will be heading home, but I don’t want it to end. Things have been continuously damp for the last 3 odd weeks, so it will be nice to again have truly dry clothes, clothes that don’t always ave a musty smell.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Some pics:</span></div>
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The town of Tansen</div>
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Typical street in Tansen</div>
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Approaching Pokhara</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-42423817064168001822019-09-29T01:53:00.001-07:002019-09-29T01:53:55.675-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Sept 28, 2019, Bhalubang to Lumbini, 105km, 447M up, 312M end</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A quite hard day, hot, humid and into fairly strong headwinds.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Our local support guy (Raywhat) tells us that Nepal is the spoilt child of two angry divorced parents (China and India). Both China and India compete for influence, China building roads, India provides education etc., </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The southern part of Nepal (the flat plains) are effectively India, very similar people, customs etc., The majority of Nepal (hills and mountains) is more Mongolian. The south is Hindu, the north is Buddhist, but Hinduism and Buddhism are very similar and go hand in hand, many people are both. Hindu has a caste system (still quite strongly in effect in the countryside), Buddhism does not have a caste system.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Speaking of Caste systems, I think I understand the “rules of the road” a bit better, it is essentially a caste system, cows are at the top, buses next, then transport trucks, cars, motorcycles and pedestrians. Cyclist are below pedestrians. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Nepal calendar is the Lunar calendar and Saturday is the weekly holiday.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Sept 29, 2019, Rest Day Lumbini</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Lumbini is the birth place of Siddhartha Gautama (a.k.a.Buddha), the actual birthplace (563 BC) is marked by the Maya Devi temple, named after Buddha’s mother. Today the Maya Devi Temple is part of a huge complex (2km by 3km) of monastic Temples contributed by Buddhist communities around the world. The area is known as the Lumbini Development Zone - a rather odd name considering the Buddhist philosophy. As originally conceived Buddhism is not a religion but a psychological approach to liberating oneself from the suffering of the world. There is no god in Buddhism and there is no indication that Buddha wished to be deified. Somewhat inconsistent with the Lumbini Development Zone.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Maya Devi temple itself is really a building that covers/protects what are remains going back 2200 years.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Something that is unfortunate is that although various countries funded the creation of the Temples, little money has been allocated for maintenance. Too commonly I see this.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">There is a serious effort for the Temple complex to be “green”, the only Tuktuk’s that are allowed are battery powered.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Tourists and pilgrims everywhere are all the same - selfie sticks were very common. The only difference here is that all the women wear beautiful bright coloured sari’s.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Some pics of the Maya Devi:</span></div>
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The famous Bodhi (pipal) tree</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXIYAAlU5H_gyztvxAwWTGed_0l9H5Rz2_w1byTJ6CVL2cJCJEaHEDfHG0bq2EipdTQ_oAuf3mFBA9zkihZL-ubpib77Om7UbWp9dT0FUpzpKyjnozIv8cSk3GUn7ToCCoDSE4L6q9W1Tv/s1600/IMG_3966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXIYAAlU5H_gyztvxAwWTGed_0l9H5Rz2_w1byTJ6CVL2cJCJEaHEDfHG0bq2EipdTQ_oAuf3mFBA9zkihZL-ubpib77Om7UbWp9dT0FUpzpKyjnozIv8cSk3GUn7ToCCoDSE4L6q9W1Tv/s640/IMG_3966.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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OK, why the red and green (Port and Starboard) donation boxes?</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Some pics of other temples and monasteries: </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJyzniR3ACQJzzicS6Zj_0NsRgvn4ywCASPh8wct1JR69M9GaWS0G3IMkcIf9IQ7ipsYr_xxlumTYQkBrWDmVTbjERZhtHNvfOFHWpchKjmSn3pKWCXlwfQGV5TZ-cjzreU6ZDvUUgFan/s1600/IMG_3956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJyzniR3ACQJzzicS6Zj_0NsRgvn4ywCASPh8wct1JR69M9GaWS0G3IMkcIf9IQ7ipsYr_xxlumTYQkBrWDmVTbjERZhtHNvfOFHWpchKjmSn3pKWCXlwfQGV5TZ-cjzreU6ZDvUUgFan/s640/IMG_3956.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKjaen8Zc42t7unqLeu6IJxe5xPru8xBNLeO-gW9F5YoR2Evqli_v4gFsA-pLNUaVSMC23uUptONIXSbwtL7LESr9NSmnhlD62rgQNjkfthNGxfOxMOVHSXmWn-ypfz6gl5UTMV29DGohH/s1600/IMG_3967.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKjaen8Zc42t7unqLeu6IJxe5xPru8xBNLeO-gW9F5YoR2Evqli_v4gFsA-pLNUaVSMC23uUptONIXSbwtL7LESr9NSmnhlD62rgQNjkfthNGxfOxMOVHSXmWn-ypfz6gl5UTMV29DGohH/s640/IMG_3967.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWmjc_QvwsYUZsl8qHnciFZ6gWC3tBxLhtn_Azxb6RLEnK3g2p-N9NmZ9EceWFbezLwqiVPFNi1s08t_cWe0vJ4Ddwxeuhdnl_OpjCRpwsCwUqxJs_OIJBi_PWiuNDDot0smGSU0uB2doF/s1600/IMG_3969.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWmjc_QvwsYUZsl8qHnciFZ6gWC3tBxLhtn_Azxb6RLEnK3g2p-N9NmZ9EceWFbezLwqiVPFNi1s08t_cWe0vJ4Ddwxeuhdnl_OpjCRpwsCwUqxJs_OIJBi_PWiuNDDot0smGSU0uB2doF/s640/IMG_3969.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This central canal is about 2km long, one can take a water taxi from one end to the other.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhEtKgSPTv7mjBYnei8Z1Hz1Y9Rf0RJXtA49CCiyU330ktsMYHXtNnbel5H-EJGy21-ExRuy9ZtPnnpiTC0813up6ZJ6wyL3JX1_exvbXa6m36k3pMavwkJPIZBW437ZZGkfMlKPRVDaOG/s1600/IMG_3971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhEtKgSPTv7mjBYnei8Z1Hz1Y9Rf0RJXtA49CCiyU330ktsMYHXtNnbel5H-EJGy21-ExRuy9ZtPnnpiTC0813up6ZJ6wyL3JX1_exvbXa6m36k3pMavwkJPIZBW437ZZGkfMlKPRVDaOG/s640/IMG_3971.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Yes, one removes shoes before entering anywhere</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0FsZfWxfpCbPYOvhvaLNEyF_nXgnJjENoRXGFgIhJh4oVx1VkCve-T3uVOIvm_EV43mZHIQ0sqB0q_n6uDxyK50OsxRWOliBJ2FtKxMzKXVEPxYfP5ksf2lg9PeHqVePTnPsAbSkJYw6q/s1600/IMG_3972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0FsZfWxfpCbPYOvhvaLNEyF_nXgnJjENoRXGFgIhJh4oVx1VkCve-T3uVOIvm_EV43mZHIQ0sqB0q_n6uDxyK50OsxRWOliBJ2FtKxMzKXVEPxYfP5ksf2lg9PeHqVePTnPsAbSkJYw6q/s640/IMG_3972.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc6DPQLJ498I7JO3_UNM9xcSPvIQa859AUgqsnh_QeFeIRJ2b1oTUHdPkbdpiTh5lpOLP3MGC1QnvcDPosjiBfOqrUNSmfds-Em4nHzp3VWJ4iozpaX1-DCZvismOzBUgYE8IkK-usq7tD/s1600/IMG_3977.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc6DPQLJ498I7JO3_UNM9xcSPvIQa859AUgqsnh_QeFeIRJ2b1oTUHdPkbdpiTh5lpOLP3MGC1QnvcDPosjiBfOqrUNSmfds-Em4nHzp3VWJ4iozpaX1-DCZvismOzBUgYE8IkK-usq7tD/s640/IMG_3977.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I love the root system on this tree - I gather fairly common in the tropics.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj19C-lCP_4uDrFl6smW1qYptl2yU55QdRsmAvj3t7uboBTSDBNfF1RqGi3ZKDfxukNaJvDdcUoL06MZRbhIgkbdIlXQlWVvdbXjz6LtekzggaVY2ZW7OZhdcKQJNS0HEMklywZxwrinLGo/s1600/IMG_3978.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj19C-lCP_4uDrFl6smW1qYptl2yU55QdRsmAvj3t7uboBTSDBNfF1RqGi3ZKDfxukNaJvDdcUoL06MZRbhIgkbdIlXQlWVvdbXjz6LtekzggaVY2ZW7OZhdcKQJNS0HEMklywZxwrinLGo/s640/IMG_3978.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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One ceiling shot</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9vjhwt-e9CY1LE2fWzhJa9rBaVM78_H7vSN8HHEyT-lx2Tm19J8ZlOVCjwD21fw8xSkTcecsSlENAopLJkyiFZrSTySNMfa2gocNi66mDmej6Wk_DpeZGLw1POECtewNLhBwcQO8Bs67u/s1600/IMG_3979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9vjhwt-e9CY1LE2fWzhJa9rBaVM78_H7vSN8HHEyT-lx2Tm19J8ZlOVCjwD21fw8xSkTcecsSlENAopLJkyiFZrSTySNMfa2gocNi66mDmej6Wk_DpeZGLw1POECtewNLhBwcQO8Bs67u/s640/IMG_3979.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Note the eyes</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitQq_if5WZ5xteICqMqDNmwCE2oi235O5XNgTMBD25mhgAhkKa9-mDXU0L9plO6QPjdmN_Shq6tadV_du68zI9MwLqn60-E5flY6b-WR_HoDZxJTUqUqv3xWmFYhCN2jqM2eBE01rV6z9J/s1600/IMG_3980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitQq_if5WZ5xteICqMqDNmwCE2oi235O5XNgTMBD25mhgAhkKa9-mDXU0L9plO6QPjdmN_Shq6tadV_du68zI9MwLqn60-E5flY6b-WR_HoDZxJTUqUqv3xWmFYhCN2jqM2eBE01rV6z9J/s640/IMG_3980.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Yes, those are two gardeners hand cutting the lawn.</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-79896870527338420312019-09-27T04:30:00.002-07:002019-09-27T04:30:51.162-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Sept 26, Bhardia Wildlife Resort to Kohalpur: 73km, 108M up, 374M end. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A flat fairly easy ride, some wind against, but quite hot and humid, with a very nice hotel at the end.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Sept 27, Lohalpur to Bhalubang: 143km, 878m up, 516M end.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A harder ride, fair bit of wind against. Into a very modest hotel. No hot water for a shower, but the cold wasn’t very cold. But the beer was colder - excellent!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I don’t usually criticize the local drivers, they have their local rules that work for them, we shouldn’t bring our “rules” from home and expect them to apply here. Most of the drivers are very good, yes, they hustle and yes they pass much closer than we are used to, but they are thoughtful and very good. Most of the cars are good and the vast majority of heavy trucks are very considerate, almost always giving a honk and wave. Most of the motorcycles either slow and talk to me (where you from, where you going), or at the least give a short honk and a big thumbs up and smile.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">But the bus drivers are absolute idiots and I say that without reservation. Three incidents today: the first was an accident where a bus hit a small truck (just around the corner in front of me) - the good news - no one was badly hurt, but the small truck was totalled. The second incident happened right in front of me - a bus forced a motorcycle to hit (and kill) a dog, the motorcycle then ended up off the road down a bank and luckily into bushes. The motorcycle driver was OK, not sure about his bike. The third incident involved a bus forcing me fully off the road, not the first time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A few pics from the last couple of days:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp6FkZhwFma-1wcnUYMRwDbAJJG74Szeqm5xspWUff3RCG0ChTBNStS8IwPDdg3xtwGhFxN1-kA-ClFCIoguuKDHf2RAFqToH_4MgOd-aXUet__JwBlP5MvvQpxSnqKWJH_pqxLvURw2KY/s1600/IMG_3924.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp6FkZhwFma-1wcnUYMRwDbAJJG74Szeqm5xspWUff3RCG0ChTBNStS8IwPDdg3xtwGhFxN1-kA-ClFCIoguuKDHf2RAFqToH_4MgOd-aXUet__JwBlP5MvvQpxSnqKWJH_pqxLvURw2KY/s640/IMG_3924.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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First reference to our destination, Kathmandu</div>
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Nice hotel tonight</div>
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My Tuktuk driver riding back from town</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-44689227838647454532019-09-24T21:44:00.001-07:002019-09-24T21:44:13.722-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Sept 24, 2019, Bhimdatta to Bhardia Wildlife Resort: 154km, 841M up</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">It was a long (154km) but easy day, mostly flat. I’ve noticed the weather systems here don’t give you much warning - one drop of rain, then a 2nd drop and immediately an absolute deluge! I was absolutely soaked before I could even think about a rain jacket. Not really a problem since it was very warm. I would have preferred the rain to be a bit colder, I was still too hot. The rain didn’t last long, but there seemed to be an inch of water on the road whilst it was raining. It quickly stopped, and about a hour later when I had just started to dry out, it dumped again.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We are riding on the plains along the Himalayan hills. There is no transition, the hills immediately end and there is flat plain. Also note I didn’t say “Foothills”, there is nothing small about these hills.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">One of the little delights today: During the early part of the day there were school kids in uniform going everywhere, walking, on bicycles, on buses, piled in carts being towed by tractors, in small towns and villages, out in the middle of the country. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">At one point I was slowly catching up to a wagon being towed by a tractor with 15-20 kids in school uniforms. We had great fun - they would cheer me on as I got closer to their wagon, then go quiet as I slipped back. All sorts of cheering and yelling when I overtook. Lot’s of “hello, hello”, “where are you from?”. A little exchange, but very memorable.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We have just finished 7 days in a row and now have a rest day. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Where we are is in the Bhardia Wildlife Reserve, the largest national park/reserve in Nepal. Home to Bengal Tigers, Elephants and one horned Rhino’s. Your chance of seeing a Tiger is extremely remote. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Although we are in a “Resort”, it is rather modest, one towel per room, one lightbulb per room, I’ve slept on concrete that was softer than the bed, hot water for a shower comes in a bucket. But, when I cycled in yesterday afternoon, there was a large cold beer waiting along with an excellent plate of french fries. And as we have universally experienced, the Nepalese people are very polite, very warm and friendly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We had a time zone change when moving from India to Nepal - 15 minutes. I guess Nepal wants to ensure it is seen as a different country than India.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">No pics today as I kept my phone out of the rain.</span></div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-50011860048325827482019-09-23T08:25:00.000-07:002019-09-23T08:25:12.577-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Sept 23, 2019, Naukuchiayata, India to Bhimdatta, Nepal: 134km, 259M up, end 259M</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We descended from the Himalayan Hills onto the flat plain today, the transition from steep hill to flat was instantaneous - one minute I was at full speed down mountain curves, then instantly I was on flat straight road. There has been no flat and straight since we arrived in India. We are at less than 500M elevation so now very hot and humid. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The big news for the day is that we crossed into Nepal, can’t really tell the difference from India, but a bit quieter and the people seem more easy going. The border crossing was a very friendly affair, yes they had to do their official paperwork, but were very friendly about it, many pictures were taken with these cyclist tourists. I also got a Nepal SIM card - took only 15 minutes with very happy, friendly people.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Some pics from the last few days:</span></div>
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The elevation profile in Meters from Rishikesh to Kathmandu</div>
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Another day, another 1,300M climb</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-67842890826341676852019-09-22T01:56:00.001-07:002019-09-22T01:56:50.932-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Sept 19 - 22:</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Various random notes:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The internet availability is getting rare and very rough, so I expect I’ll be posting less. We cross into Nepal tomorrow, so not sure what that will bring.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Another problem: the very nice resort we were in last night, did not have a very nice electrical system (something about phase balance problems) - end result was that the charger for my laptop was fried. Not sure when I’ll be able to replace. I can borrow a charge but only sometimes… </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">As I mentioned, Rishikesh is a “pure” city, only vegetarian food, no beer or other booze. I was reminded that if one wants to find something maybe illegal in a town/city, the answer is really simple - hop in a taxi (Tuktuk in our case) and simply say take me to where I can buy beer, wait for me and bring me back to my hotel. It was about a 7 minute tuktuk ride.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In the countryside (and cities) all the women are beautifully dressed, even if they are working in the fields or carrying a bundle of sticks or hay on their heads.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The resort we are staying in tonight is high on a hill overlooking the surrounding countryside complete with very nice individual lodges and swimming pool. But, we have noticed a pattern here, every day involves a huge climb to a very nice lodge on the top of a hill. These climbs are usually in the 1,000-1,500M range (think 3 times the height of the Malahat).</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The countryside around us has been high pine forest, everywhere it is hills, if anything more of the population lives on the top of these hills not in the valleys.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This has been a very hard ride, with many people either getting sick or having small injuries. I have been really impressed with the Tda folks. The overall organization of the event is really good, we’ve always had fantastic food, the logistics support during the days is first class and they are always really upbeat. My best complements.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Unfortunately, I’ve now completed my experience in India, the local name is Dehli Belly, or in my case it was Rishikesh Belly. I knew something was not right when I started riding yesterday morning, I got about 25km into the ride (about 15km up a 35km climb) when I knew I was in trouble. Diarrhea and vomiting quickly followed (luckily not at the same time) and I was absolutely exhausted. No way I was going to make the 1,350M of climbing for the day. So, end of EFI, I was picked up by the sweep truck. Since I was completely empty, effectively having tossed out all the food I had eaten over the last day and a half, I had absolutely no energy, so I also decided to ride the truck the next day. So, I rode in the truck one full day, then rode two half days and today (Sept 22) back to full days riding.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I’ve noticed that there is fibre optic cables being laid everywhere, to the smallest remote village, in the remotest valley (we saw cable being laid all the way up the Spiti Valley). The project looks well on the way to completion. I expect within a year, every household in India will be fibre connected. This is a serious powerhouse in the making.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I’ve been told that not all of the rock splitting I referred to earlier, is simply to make smaller rocks, there are a lot of semi-precious stones embedded in the rocks. So, when the boss is looking the focus is on simply splitting rocks, but when the boss is away the focus is on finding semi-precious stones.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Last night, we stayed in the famous luxury Corbett Canyon Resort, known for its Elephants and Tigers. Seeing an Elephant is not too difficult, but seeing a Tiger is all but impossible.</span></div>
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Tonight is our last night in India, it has been an amazing time, the cycling has been fantastic, awful, incredibly hard, terrifyingly scary and everything in between. The people, like every other country have been very warm and welcoming, many special memories.</div>
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I'm fighting with the WiFi, so sorry, no pics this post. If I can get better access I'll post.</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-76938024332627711532019-09-16T22:17:00.000-07:002019-09-16T22:17:11.347-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Riding day # 19, Sept 16, 2019, Musoorie to Rishikesh: 80km, 483M up, 939M end.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">An easy mostly downhill ride, but very warm and very high humidity. Four days in a row where I my shirt is absolutely soaked with sweat.</span></div>
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Yes, the shirt is soaked with sweat</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Rishikesh is the largest Indian city we cycle in and out of. I actually enjoy the chaos of cycling in the tight streets, heavy traffic - cars, trucks, buses, carts, millions of small motorcycles, tuktuk’s, cows, dogs, monkeys and people going every which way. The chorus of horns can be really deafening and very annoying at times) all on narrow streets where the surface goes from perfectly smooth tarmac to ugly potholes in seconds. One needs to be absolutely focused.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Rishikesh is “Mecca” for Yoga and meditation. There are probably 1,000+ Ashrams (think a retreat for Yoga and Meditation). But this comes with two bad things: i) No beer to be found anywhere near Rishikesh and ii) only vegetarian food is available. I guess I will have to purify my body and mind whether I want to or not.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The hotel provided an interesting character as a combination greeter/shaman/tour guide/huckster/entertainer. He was very good. He took us to the nightly Aarti on the banks of the Ganges in the middle of Old Town. The Aarti is a river worship ceremony. A combination of worship and celebration of Mother Ganga and Shiva</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Ganges is personified as the goddess Ganga. Ganga’s mother is Mena and her father is Himavat, the personification of the Himalaya mountains.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Shiva is the Supreme Being, Lord of Divine Energy, Meditation, Arts, Yoga, Time, Dance and Supreme destroyer of Evil.</span></div>
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Our guide</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The ceremony was right on the river, one removed shoes before you approached, and washed your hands. People would set adrift small “boats” of flowers with a lit candle. Lot’s of music and singing, an impressive coordinated fire show with audience participation. A quite magical event.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The photos don’t do it justice:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In Rishikesh we also did a final farewell to Mike Hennessey. We held a small ceremony on the steps of the river below our hotel and poured his remaining ashes in the Ganges. Again a very emotional event. I truly miss Mike not being with us on this adventure.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A couple pics: 4063, 81, 89</span></div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-49061854726303299002019-09-16T21:57:00.003-07:002019-09-16T21:57:52.840-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Riding day #18, Sept 15, 2019, Purola to Musoorie: 102km, 1,670M up,2,428 M end</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Musoorie is another “hill station”, i.e. town on the top of a hill, cooler and less humidity - but on the top of a hill. Another day (3rd in a row) with serious climbing. But it was cooler, lower humidity and it did have cold beer!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">As I’ve mentioned, there seems to be a “workfare” program where people are hired to manually do road construction - rather than using heavy equipment as we are used to. This work includes breaking rocks with a sledge hammer - i.e. turning big rocks into small rocks. I passed several guys today sitting on the side of the road with a pile of big rocks on one side of him (in-basket) and a pile of small broken rocks (out-basket) on the other. He spent his days pounding on rocks. Wow, what a hard way to eek out a living. But then I considered what he must be thinking looking at me slowly grinding up another 2,000M climb - “I just hammer on rocks all day - easy, that poor bastard has to cycle up these huge hills every day - pounding rocks is way easier!”.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">pics from the day:</span></div>
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School uniforms</div>
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Cactus - high humidity, but little rain</div>
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Leaving town</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-68032136553618482992019-09-16T21:50:00.002-07:002019-09-16T21:50:51.305-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Riding day #17, Sept 14, 2019, Rohru to Purola: 107km, 1,228M up, 1,830M end</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We have now dropped out of the mountains into the foothills, hence getting very warm with high humidity. Also doing serious climbing, I have never sweated like this before. Probably drank at least 4 litres of fluids.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">On the way into Shimla we had a section of wonderful downhill, actually most of it was wonderful - there was one large pothole that had my name on it. The good news is that it didn't toss me off my bike - the bad news is the it damaged my rear wheel, both dents the rim and made out of round - the rear brakes were effectively impossible to use. I did manage to flatten the brake surface so the brakes are good, but the wheel has a significant flat spot - thump, thump, thump. Maybe when I get to Rishikesh we'll be able to find a new rim...</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Lots of riders have had troubles, falls ( only minor bone cracks), several scrapes, a couple have succumbed to digestion problems, 3 had altitude problem and general exhaustion.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Again a hard day. The continuous honking of horns was getting to me today, probably because I’m fairly exhausted. I (think) I understand the honking conventions, but I found it annoyingly excessive today. Also, there are tons of cows (and water buffalo, goats, etc.,) always on the road. That means the road is commonly covered in dung, too much to avoid in many cases. Cleaning cow dung off ones water bottles adds to the experience! </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">There is no common garbage system, that means every little village has the garbage burning spot - the smell of burning plastic and burning everything else is annoying to say the least.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">On a more positive note, was hearing Cuckoo birds today, been awhile since I previously heard. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">some pics from the day:</span></div>
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rush hour traffic</div>
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the water buffalo gathering spot</div>
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The top of hill greeter</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-336460543122547572019-09-16T21:39:00.001-07:002019-09-16T21:39:24.031-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Riding day #16, Sept 13, 2019</b> <b>Shimla to Rohru: 109km, 1,778M up, 1,970M end</b><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This area of India is the apple production centre, and this is harvest time, so an amazing number of big and small trucks carrying apples to market. Occasionally one goes astray:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In Shimla, there is a two stage (about) 6 storey public elevator - takes one from the mid level of the town towards the top, it costs 20 rupees to ride (about $0.40) - but they gave me the seniors rate (14 rupees) without my even asking - not sure if I should be insulted or complimented?</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A minor development later in the day: turns out the hotel we were supposed to be staying in doesn’t exist, not sure if this was a simple mistake or a scam. In any case the TDA guys quickly sorted it out, found a new hotel (quite reasonable) and got directions to everyone to the new hotel. Considering the chaos of this (by India standards) small town, I’m impressed with TDA.</span></div>
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Dunnery at his end of day best</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I’ve noticed this a couple of times (e.g. now at the hotel): the chorus of crickets in the trees is really loud, reaches a high pitch dies off then a loud chorus again. At least I think they are crickets.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Interesting scam we discovered at Shimla: A monkey swipes sunglasses off the head of a tourist, a local lures the monkey with some food and gets the sunglasses - the happy tourist gives 200 rupees to the local. Yes, the local and the monkey are working as a pair.</span></div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-92118005946676373672019-09-11T04:06:00.000-07:002019-09-11T04:06:00.007-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Riding day #15</b>, Sept 10, 2019 Rampur to Shimla, 131km, 2,436M (8,000 ft) up, 2,999M end</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This was the hardest riding day I have ever done, started with an easy 25km rolling section, then one continuous climb of 1,850M over 37km - i.e. 6% continuous, no breaks, then rolling hills with two more climbs. An absolutely huge day. The hardest day I have ever done. I’m getting quite comfortable riding in the heavy traffic, heavy trucks, small trucks, cars, pedestrians, cows, donkeys, dogs, occasional monkeys, etc.,</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">TDA has a rule of no riding after dark. Based on the elevation profile and distance, I knew that only if I hustled could I make the 6:30 cut-off for dark. (We are in the tropics, so only about 12hours of daylight). I made OK time to lunch (about 2/3rd’s of the way up the big climb), then I knew I had to press it to make it by 6:30. With about 25km to go the TDA people stopped me, we were into some fairly dense fog and they were concerned about safety. Was I being ordered to stop or were they just being cautious? Let me phone and check with the boss. No way was I going to wait for permission, I had not been told to stop so made a run for it. Rae Simpson (fighter test pilot) joined me. We escaped cleanly, the fog lifted and we pressed hard to make it to the Hotel by 6:30. An absolutely glorious ride, heavy traffic, through a busy pedestrian Mall, through a tunnel and a big downhill (passing cars and trucks). I was absolutely exhausted, could barely stand at the end. The pleasure of maintaining EFI was absolute! I know, I know, little boy stuff, but it sure was fun (but very very hard). </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I estimate it was a 10,000 calorie day, that will take more than one or two beers to make up.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Normally I hand wash my riding clothes each day, but today I looked at my shirt, it was disgusting, so into the hotel laundry. It may take a miracle to return it to white.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Some pics from the day:</span></div>
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The proprietress of a small store I stopped at.</div>
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I think all the netting is to keep birds off the apples</div>
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Around Shimla</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Now in Shimla for two rest days, then on to Rishikesh. Shimla was the British headquarters, both administrative and socially, we are on a high hill, actually 7 hills, hence the term Hill Station. Above the heat and humidity of the surrounding valleys.</span></div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-11975736470957267442019-09-11T03:54:00.002-07:002019-09-11T03:54:42.108-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Riding day #14</b>, Sept 9, 2019: Kalpa to Rampur, 111km, 702M up,1,456M end.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Yes, we started the day with the 850M descent down what we had climbed yesterday… then further descended. Now into India proper, heat and humidity!</span></div>
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This guy was operating this powered areal tram . A really long term (2km?). He was suffering cargo when I was watching, maybe people also?</div>
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Another tea stop</div>
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Our host</div>
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Yes, the road was more of a tunnel, than simply road.</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-22903234762763648322019-09-11T03:47:00.000-07:002019-09-11T03:47:08.831-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Riding day #13</b>, Sept 8, 2019 Nako to Kalpa, 112km, 1,490M up, end elev 2,797</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The day started (rather groggily from no sleep, with a lovely switchback downhill that went on and on. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT2VEOqwg_vjfpJLOXWpkvnV7IH0sP-Z7x4rkLs30I_0B31La-4PuMLVxPVnOKB1bukYi_HZlFoZ-K6q4ZEx0MWCvJT_-oDuikaPZLgWakd6zyLwwtiE1bRqf1ARAIO0QLEp3T6J1XKvXy/s1600/IMG_3760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT2VEOqwg_vjfpJLOXWpkvnV7IH0sP-Z7x4rkLs30I_0B31La-4PuMLVxPVnOKB1bukYi_HZlFoZ-K6q4ZEx0MWCvJT_-oDuikaPZLgWakd6zyLwwtiE1bRqf1ARAIO0QLEp3T6J1XKvXy/s640/IMG_3760.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Our town from last night</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">For much of the day we were alongside the Sutleg river, the Spiti river had joined it earlier and it will eventually flow into the Ganges. Sometimes the road was wonderful, but then there were the 200 odd sections where there had been significant rockfall, a mudslide, a washout, or the road had slipped into the river. All these (typically) short sections were very rough rock, often with heavy dust. In these sections there typically was two very rough tracks from the two vehicle wheels. Rough enough that you could easily be tossed for a fall. This was a concern, because if you tried to ride in the left track (as you should - left hand drive and all that), a fall would be rather significant - i.e. it could toss you off the road. Since the edge of the road was a vertical clip down into the river, commonly 500+ft below. I have never felt this uncomfortable riding on a road before. And, no there were no guardrails, ever!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">It wasn’t surprising to come across this sign indicated “most treacherous road in the world”. If the claim is not true, I definitely don’t want to drive/cycle and road that claims to be worse.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The day ended with an 850M (2,800 ft) climb up to our hotel, apparently the best hotel in the area, also closer to the Gods. I don’t need to be closer to the Gods. During the evening I found out that we will start tomorrow descending down the same 850M. It was a nice hotel, and with spectacular views, but just for one night!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Apparently in some spots in town one can see Mt Kailash at 6,638M (21,800ft) just into Tibet. It is considered sacred in Bon, Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism. If one walks clockwise around the mountain 108 times (a lifetime of walking), you clear all your Karma. This makes the Catholic confessions look way to easy.</span></div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-40655627291469976462019-09-11T03:36:00.000-07:002019-09-11T03:36:17.771-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Riding day #12</b>, Sept 7: Tabo to Nako 64 km, 1,085M up, end elev 3,659M (12,005ft).</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">More of riding along the Spiti river - think the FraserCanyon on serious steroids. Lots of riding where the road is one lane, no guard rail and a long plunge straight down to the boiling river. Continue to be very rough terrain. I amazed they manage to keep the road open, there seems to be very continuous mud and rock slides.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We are in a “Inner Permit Area”, essentially the area at the top of India close to Tibet (China), in fact we are within 2km as the crow flies. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicVBF9_t5BvPh19vUPaERRCX2B_lyt0DNw0YBfUkP9Lho82yi9gTaRsnJ56CU47RRSVfO0PZUQFAeMLWoZBrUYKJ40vzT5R9-3Me3Dbr_tiUX0mxDX5h-ElVUgNlGzyDGGL0bjZT0qoGNC/s1600/IMG_3736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicVBF9_t5BvPh19vUPaERRCX2B_lyt0DNw0YBfUkP9Lho82yi9gTaRsnJ56CU47RRSVfO0PZUQFAeMLWoZBrUYKJ40vzT5R9-3Me3Dbr_tiUX0mxDX5h-ElVUgNlGzyDGGL0bjZT0qoGNC/s640/IMG_3736.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I'mnot sure if I have this right or not, but it appears in India there is no welfare (the family is expected to take care of family), but there does appear to be "workfare". Rather than bring in some heavy equipment to do road repair/construction, they bring in labourers from a poor area to do the work - same money but now 200 people re employed. These highway workers are both male and female, one of the female workers:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The main feature of the ride today was a 910M continuous climb. Just after the summit, Dunnery and I found this place - maybe a new outstation for the club.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">There is a wedding going on in the town we are in tonight, concerning, since weddings around here are multi day affairs. Hopefully I get some sleep tonight.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I’m not sure if I have this right, but for the wedding, things start with a general gathering, band playing, the whole town is out dressed in their finest. Then there are a couple of processions that go to the Brides parents house, led by a band. There is food and entertainment at the Bride’s parents house, then the party seems to continuously move. We have yet to see the Bride or Groom.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The good news was that there were no dogs barking all night (a very rare thing), but the bad news was that the wedding festivities went all night, ending at dawn - i.e. when my alarm clock went off, and I was attempting to sleep in a tent. The thumping of the background beat in the music was not dampened by earplugs. A night of essentially no sleep.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We have now moved south enough that we are out of the northern Buddhist area and into the predominately Hindu area. So the general greeting changes from Julay (sp?) to Namaste. </span></div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-61785465395964158952019-09-11T03:19:00.002-07:002019-09-11T03:19:40.552-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Riding day #11</b>, Sept 6, 2019: Kaza to Tabo 411M up, 50km, 3,833M (12, 575 ft.) max, 3,336M end.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">An easy day ride, a bit rough at times but mostly downhill. We are still at 3,337M (10,950 ft) elevation so everything is still hard.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The scenery continues as similar so only a few pics.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">One pic of interest is this one, showing two young kids in a small basket pulling themselves across the river in an areal pull-tram. This is their route to school. I’ve confirmed that in India education to grade 12 is free, actually free for the girls but the boys (parents) have to pay a very small amount for high school.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical tea stop</td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; text-align: left;">There continue to be very high mountain peaks around us, probably in the 18,000ft+ range.</span></div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-89754935557989487502019-09-11T03:05:00.001-07:002019-09-11T03:05:39.452-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sept 4, 2019</b>: We reversed our path and bussed out of Manali back over the Rohtang pass. The road is essentially a one lane road, but we many passing spots. At one point there had been a significant slide a few days earlier which mean there was a longer single lane section and since many of the drivers are fairly aggressive, two vehicles ended up nose to nose and the traffic filled in quickly behind each. This is serious gridlock. The police were called and various vehicles backed up ( a half a mile). End result was a small delay of 2 hours.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Apparently Rohtang pass roughly translates into “pile of dead bodies”.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Having now completed the Leh Manali section, our next challenge is the Spiti valley. We entered the Spiti Valley by coming over the top at the high end. We supposedly get some easy downhill riding days - but I suspect we will be working for it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We are now within about 10km of Tibet (China)</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Riding day #10</b>, Sept 5, 2019: Losar to Kaza (bus’d from Manali to Losar): 900M up, 62km, 4,313 ( 14,150ft.) max, 3,661m (12,011ft) end.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We are supposedly riding down the Spiti Valley, but today involved a serious climb ending up at Kibber village. This is the highest year-round inhabited village in the world. It is at an elevation of *4270M (14,010ft).</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kibber Village</td></tr>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-47491537710231561882019-09-03T05:15:00.001-07:002019-09-03T05:15:26.452-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Riding day #9, Sept 1, 2019: Jispa to Sissu (then bus to Manali): 947M up, 78km, 4,918 ( 16,135ft.) max, 3,397m (11,145ft) end.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A reasonable day cycling, only one 350M climb. The new thing for today is that we are low in elevation enough that therein vegetation, things are now quite lush.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We found out last night that this whole valley (and Leh Manali road) are cut off in the winter (9 months of), so many have a 2nd home in Manali, but some do rough out the winter - tough people!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Some pics from the day:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWg-KdIQL1drORd_fDNb7TVD4MbtF-vK0tl8vZvjjVKMQaE-qQxrj-bU1maDPLEubEmrtCYluW0xWH5pL5wkoDL2aT4BLLfjOe_y1JgmDDV9F3QR180ma9G4ZCcjrLT3uwDC_1B6bwSk-/s1600/IMG_3655.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWg-KdIQL1drORd_fDNb7TVD4MbtF-vK0tl8vZvjjVKMQaE-qQxrj-bU1maDPLEubEmrtCYluW0xWH5pL5wkoDL2aT4BLLfjOe_y1JgmDDV9F3QR180ma9G4ZCcjrLT3uwDC_1B6bwSk-/s640/IMG_3655.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">At the end of our ride in Sissu, we were then bussed over a hill to Manali - only about 8 km as the crow flies, but a horrendous 5 hour bus ride over the hill. They are building a tunnel that was supposed to be finished in 2016, but they discovered very serious water issues that still haven’t been solved, so up and over one goes. This was the scariest 5 hour bus ride I have ever seen. If the drivers attention lapsed you would be off a cliff and dead. One had to have strong beliefs in Karma - it is not my day to die. How rough and treacherous was it: the Dr riding with us started talking about needing Valium. One couldn’t sleep because you needed to hang on else be tossed from your seat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Not convenient for taking pictures, but a couple:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We are now in Manali, recovering from the bus ride, in a very nice hotel, complete with monkey just outside my window.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This is very much an Indian version of Banff, but with much higher mountains.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Two experiences yesterday, one fantastic, one awful. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The awful was that it took me 5 hours to get a SIM card (my previous version would only work in Ladakh). I needed both my passport and my India Visa - no problem with passport and E-visa in hand off to the shop. But my E-visa didn’t have my picture on it - OK we try anyway - rejected. We try a 2nd time (each try takes an hour) - rejected again. So back to hotel, check into the Indian Visa site, find a version with my picture, email it to the hotel desk, they print for me and back I go to the SIM card vendor. No, I’m sorry sir, must be cooler picture. So back to hotel - no colour printer. So back to my room, download the colour .pdf both onto my phone and a memory stick. Back to the SIM card dealer - no, I’m sorry sir, can’t be electronic, must be colour printed copy. Off the the print shop, now with a colour printed copy back to SIM card dealer. Yes, sir, all happy and 1/2 hour later I have a working SIM card. Finally have lunch at 3:30.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The wonderful experience: I needed to have my beard trimmed, so our local guy guided me to the right barber, advising to get full face and head massage with the cut. The trimming of my beard took about 2 minutes, then a full hour of face, head, neck, arms, shoulders hands massage and facial. The massage was very very vigorous, hammering my head, neck etc., he attempted to pull out each of my fingers twice! Also literally cracked my neck in both directions. And then the facial - 5 times I was painted with concoctions, seriously massaged, wiped clean, next painting. One of which was with a cucumber. Then a steam facial. Also he used a serious vibrator over full head, face and neck. The barber seemed very happy when I suggested he had made me into the most handsome man in Manali. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Tomorrow we bus back over the hill the way we came - it is going to be another long 5 hour trip.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We head off into the Spiti valley heading for Shimla 6 days of riding - I expect to be electronically out of touch the whole period.</span></div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-16837880140865775412019-09-03T05:05:00.000-07:002019-09-03T05:05:05.024-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Riding day #8, August 31, 2019: Sarchu to Jispa: 947M up, 78km, 4,918 ( 16,135ft.) max, 3,397m (11,145ft) end</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Again strong reminders that we are in the Himalaya’s - high altitude, very high peaks around us, rushing rivers, sometimes across the what was once called the road. There was a quite rough climb out of camp, but then a very nice (mostly) descent after.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In many ways very similar to being in the rockies, but everything is twice as big.</span></div>
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Lunch</div>
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A small stream crossing</div>
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A larger stream crossing - wet feet for sure, but not over the knees!</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-71373223581337122622019-09-02T10:48:00.001-07:002019-09-02T10:48:57.596-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">August 30, 2019: Pang to Sarchu: 1320M up, 86km, 4,394m (14,416ft) end</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Two high passes today:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The first was Lachulung La 5,080M</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The second was Nakleela 4,9020M</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Cycling up the two passes was very hard due to the altitude, the bit of cold rain and bits of hail just added to complete the experience.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today we descended off Nakleela one descends to the Tsarap river via the Gata Loops, a very famous set of 21 switchbacks that are simply spectacular. Possibly one of the best cyclist descents in the world. I suggest maybe not the best road to take your mother in law for a ride - not one “slow to” sign, not one “curve ahead” sign and effectively no barricades - I did not glance over the edge whilst cycling.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"> Some pics:</span></div>
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About to descend the Gata loops - note all the curve signs, slow to signed and barricades!<br />
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Our camp tonight<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Unfortunately we have had two people suffer from altitude sickness and one who thought better of attempting the high passes. All three will be joining us in Manali at a lower altitude of approx 1,800M or 7,000 ft.</span></div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-45409351899475168092019-09-02T10:04:00.001-07:002019-09-02T10:04:31.284-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Tso Kar to Pang:</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">52km, 350M up, 489M dwn 4460M end</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">It was an easy day, only 50km essentially flat or downhill, but at altitude, so everything is hard.</span></div>
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Leaving Camp</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Again absolutely gorgeous scenery, we are on the Morei </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Pleins, a very high open valley.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Yesterday, tonight and tomorrow we will be sleeping at the highest points of the trip, 4,515, 4,520 and 4,200M respectively (14,813ft, 14,829 and 13,780ft.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We have accommodations in the absolute best establishment in Pang. The Hotel Sonam Dhaba. Considered 5 star by the locals. We are 8 to a room with one common ensuite. I’m fairly sure the Michelin travel writers have never stopped here.</span></div>
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Our stay tonight</div>
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Eight of us to this room - and nobody snored! But the entrance and ensuite doors really squeaked!</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The food has been very good, even in very modest establishments. An excellent meal this evening, a candle light setting, but without the candles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Might have been a better choice for the night: </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I was very impressed with TDA today. Word was there was a motorcyclist that was badly suffering from altitude sickness, one of the two bad types, high altitude cerebral oedema, swelling of the brain. Immediately the TDA Doctor was off to deal with him. After some treatment of steroids and oxygen, he was stabilized. Arrangements were made with the local military to immediately transport him to lower elevation.</span></div>
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A pic for Kelly</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7301077825628992207.post-29594475475673306472019-09-02T09:33:00.000-07:002019-09-02T09:33:02.576-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Lato to Tso Kar camp, Aug 28, 2019:</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">1,570M up 900M dwn, 5,359M max</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">An absolutely spectacular day, but set a new standard for me of brutally hard.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We had a 38km climb right from breakfast, topping out at 5359M (17,582ft.) at the TangLang la. (la means pass). This will be the highest point of the whole tour and probably our toughest day. Supposedly the 2nd highest road pass in the world (some contention on that).</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Just for reference the Everest Base Camps are at an elevation of 5380M (17,600ft).</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The scenery on the climb was very similar to the last couple of days.</span><br />
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Yes, the top of the climb is on the ridge.<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Most of the time the road was excellent, but quite a few washout sections:</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A couple pics at the top:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Amazing difference between the countryside on the ascent and descent. The descent was into a widening valley - amazing countryside</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Tonight we are in nice tents, but not the really nice ones with on-suites. A couple times now a shower means going to the water tank with a solar panel, getting a bucket of usually very hot water, going to the shower room and using a larger cup one dumps the hot water over one’s self, soaps and rinses off. It is quite luxurious, even if the shower room is quite rough. It is even better if there is a mirror, it makes it easier to pour the water on you, not missing.</span></div>
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Road to camp<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Pre Dinner</span><br />
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Our camp</div>
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Our host</div>
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Ron Jewulahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15720296424674226978noreply@blogger.com0